Thorough soil preparation is vital for successful seed gardening outdoors. If you've suffered the cost of low germination rates or complete seed failure it was probably due to poor preparation. But a good seed bed not only gives higher rates of germination, it benefits growing seedlings for weeks.

The exceptions to this are when you use pre-seeded mats or sow into seed compost in trays.

But there's no reason why you can't grow a fine ornamental lawn from seed or enjoy the much wider variety of plants available from seeds. But do prepare the soil thoroughly - here's how.

WHAT TO AIM FOR

• Bread crumb sized soil particles (ranging from 0.5 to 5 millimetres)
• A firm seed bed where your boot leaves a visible but very shallow impression (usually no more than 0.75cm deep)
• Sufficient moisture beneath the surface to keep the seed bed moist
• The crumbs should not break down under rain
• The above conditions prevail down to at least 2 inches

PLAN AHEAD
You can only work up the final seed bed when conditions are just right. So unless the soil is already good start preparations well in advance of sowing (preceding autumn?).

Different soils provide different challenges for seed gardening. Sandy soils may be too dry (incorporate organic matter at an early stage) and some clay soils may be hard to break up (try liming, working in organic matter, or growing certain soil improving crops e.g.potatoes). You learn by experience but these guidelines should get you off in the right direction.
(...Coming soon Soil theory - how seed beds works.)

CLEAN UP THE SITE
Start by removing perennial weeds with the help of a fork, plus any obstructions, rocks stones etc...

INCORPORATE ORGANIC MATTER
Improve the soil by incorporating plenty of organic matter in one of the following ways.

• I recommend putting down a thick layer of organic matter in the autumn (autumn leaves or lawn cuttings). Earthworms usually convert this into granular worm casts and a friable soil. It makes a good start for working into a crumby seed bed
• When seed gardening in small areas try spreading worm casts made in a worm composter mixed with sand
• Fork in garden compost
• Dig in a green manure such as clover or, rotted animal manure during the autumn or well ahead of sowing - early spring is not too late
• If manure is available then only put on the bottom of trenches dug the previous autumn. Don't apply raw animal manure to seed beds at a late stage as seedlings will be over fertilized

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LET NATURE DO THE WORK
A loam or clay soil roughly turned over in autumn and with plenty of moisture will improve after exposure to icy winter conditions. This action alone helps break down the hard clods.

WORKING SOIL READY FOR SEED
Gardening Tools:
To work the soil you may need:

• Garden digging spade, for digging over neglected land,
• Push-pull hoe to skim off weeds,
• 3 tined cultivator, to break down soil lumps and compacted soil,
• Soil Mill to break down soil to a tilth,
• Roller for larger areas,
• Your garden boots - also used to break down soil lumps and firm,
• Rake to level fine soil and make seed drills.

• Short stakes,
• String,
• Straight edges to lay across stakes,
• Spirit level to place on straight edges.

Learn about using spades, forks & rakes.
Compare tool quality and design.

ONLY WORK SOIL UNDER THE RIGHT CONDITIONS

6-9" soil clod drying to crumbly

Breaks open easily when crushed with rake or boot. Still moist inside.

You can't work the soil when soft if, when raked smaller crumbs stick together to form larger aggregates. Allow it to dry sufficiently for clods to break open crisply when knocked and crushed, rather than being squashed and remoulded. It will still be moist within each soil lump but should get more dusty as you work. - That's ideal.

WORKING THE SOIL
Now break down the soil lumps. Draw across a 3 pronged cultivator, soil mill, or use boots to break down lumps to a tilth. The rake tines will level and the rake face tamp down and firm. Cultivate deeply; if possible down to about 7-10cm. Ideally it should be easy to push your finger down into it. Spend one session removing stones from the surface.

TREAD TO FIRM AND CRUMBLE
With the soil in a dry crumbly condition try treading. You shuffle along the soil by sliding your boots over the surface using your weight to crush the soil. Then walk on your heels to firm the seed bed down. With a large area a roller is useful for reducing soil lump size and firming. Continue to work the soil, breaking it down and firming with your boot, and using the rake to level.

YOU'RE DONE
Check that you've achieved the seed gardening - seed bed objectives outlined above. Yes it is more art than science, and as indicated above you learn by experience - and by having a go.

READY TO START SEED GARDENING?
Now we go from the gritty bit of seed gardening to the nitty bit. You've just created a good seed bed and next thing you know the weeds are taking advantage.

CLEARING WEEDS FROM THE SEED BED
When weeds like plantains, or broadleaved grasses for example, germinate with lawn seed they crowd out the lawn seedlings leaving holes after they're finally removed.

So use a flame gun on the surface of the seed bed before you sow seed. It's a simple and effective method.
Small & Large Flame Guns (X300 with or without hood) are available from here in the U.K.
Small Flame Gun - America
WARNING: Take care not to ignite dry grass or brush wood that will start a bush fire!

The alternative is the 'stale bed' method where you waite a few weeks to remove the first crop of weeds before you can sow seeds. Weeds are professionals at seed gardening so ban them from flowering on nearby land.

SOW SEEDS
Check the details on what your seeds require: sowing depth, whether they should be covered, left loose or pressed down. To sow seeds in rows gently rake out some seed drills (depth depends on seed size) using the tines of the rake. Try to sow seeds at the correct density. Use the back of the rake to draw the soil back over the drills. If necessary go along the drills pressing the rake face down to very gently firm the soil.

MARK OUT A SQUARE METRE TO BROADCAST SEED EVENLY
To get the seed sowing density correct it is useful to mark the area out in square metres and then weigh out the correct amounts of seed for a square metre.

USE A SEED CARRIER
Very tiny seeds can be hard to see and are better mixed with a seed carrier before sowing. You could mix seed with sand, fine peat, or seed compost.

ESTABLISH SEEDLINGS QUICKLY
Coated seeds give increased protection, seed visibility and ease of handling, as well as better distribution. Suttons Seeds have a selection coated with all natural seaweed extract. This provides growth stimulants and nutrients that get the seedlings off to a very good start. Seed normally sown indoors - Antirrhinum, Aster, Nemesia, Plox - can now be sown outside.

Rapid Green Lawn Seed:
is coated as above. It contains a fine leaved Rye grass giving a lawn that's both hard wearing as well as fine and ornamental. The low growing varieties in the mix need less cutting.

PRE-SOWN SEED TAPES
Especially good for vegetable seed gardening. They are easier to handle than loose seed and ensure correct spacing. You save on seed and effort as there is no need for thinning later on.

SEED MATS TO MAKE SEED GARDENING EASY
Simple to use, seed mats can save time and trouble with small flower beds when proper seed bed preparation is difficult. They are made from a biodegradable fibre which is pre-sown. Indeed you get flowers without the seed gardening methods described above. All you need do is clear the soil of obstructions, loosen the surface up with a fork if compacted, then lay down the seed mat and keep moist. These seed mats may give good value per square foot as you can get better germination rates than packet seed. Easier seed gardening with pre-seeded mats

More information on seed gardening

Back Garden Seed Saving - Sue Strickland